![]() It is good enough to go unnoticed, which is actually high praise. There isn't much more to say except for the fact that the device works as advertised, with no obvious faults to speak of. ![]() But it is certainly nice to have should the need arise. In any case, the friction ridges still provide quite a bit of friction to the point that I prefer rappelling without using them in normal conditions. The ATC-Guide Climbing Belay Rappel Device by Black Diamond is lightweight and easy to use offering smooth handling while you are climbing to your greatest heights. Whereas the ATC-XP has been said to have ~3 times the friction of the plain ATC, the ATC-Guide is said to have ~2 times the friction. It has been noted that user feedback for the ATC-XP convinced Black Diamond to tone-down the friction ridges for the ATC-Guide. This is applicable mostly for canyoneering, where single-stranded rappels on wet and thin (9mm or less) rope necessitates that level of friction. Note that all normal belay attention/precautions apply, but just that there is now a backup to normal belay.Ģ) The additional loops of aluminum functions as an effective heat sink, allowing this device to run cooler than comparable tube-style devices.ģ) The additional loop of aluminum is helpful for setting up a Z-rig rappel, which greatly increases friction. What this addition achieves is threefold:ġ) For belaying a second, the ATC-Guide can now be set-up to brake automatically, much like the Petzl Reverso/Reversino. What makes the ATC-Guide unique is the addition of two loops of aluminum. In this respect it is very much like its predecessor, the BD ATC-XP, and innumerable other similar devices. of stopping power when descending or rappelling, and the devices guide mode. At first glance our testers thought they would prefer the Reverso because it's lighter and the shiny anodized finish looks cooler. It's easy to understand why, they're both afforable, smooth, and reliable. The BD ATC-Guide is a tube-style belay/rappel device with friction ridges. Multiple friction modes provide the optimal amount of stopping power when lowering or rappelling, and the devices guide mode lets you belay one or two. Our most versatile belay / recall device, the Black Diamond ATC-Guide is. For years the Petzl Reverso 4 and Black Diamond ATC Guide have been two of the most popular belay devices among American multi-pitch climbers.
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